In July 2023, Chris and I bid farewell to sunny Prague (where the beer is cheaper than water and the sun always shines… at least it did for us) and swapped it for Scotland, renowned for its whisky, castles, and complete lack of sunshine. We joined our Californian friends, Molly and Kevin, for a week of highland hijinks and urban exploration in Edinburgh.
Our home base for the first three days was an Airbnb on the outskirts of Inverness, nestled in the suburbs next to the wild, misty beauty of the Scottish Highlands. From there, we roamed the land of lochs and legends before heading south to Edinburgh, where we wrapped up the trip with a bit more urban civilization and slightly fewer sheep.
Don’t worry about the “Lost in Scotland” title. We made a few diversions, but this post will keep you on track. We learned from our mistakes.
Date of Visit: July 20 – 25, 2023
Driving on the Left (a.k.a. Real-Life Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride)
We rented a car, because we’re brave like that. Kevin—who had accumulated a few “practice” days of heart-pounding roundabout reps—graciously volunteered for most of the driving. Scotland’s roads are narrow, curvy, and appear to have been designed by someone who had never seen a ruler. Add driving on the left to the equation, and voilà: chaos! Our sense of direction? Nearly non-existent.
Thank heavens for roundabouts. They’re like nature’s do-overs—giving you a second, third, and sometimes seventh chance to figure out where the heck you’re going.
That Time We Went to Urquhart… But Not That Urquhart
Our navigation system was technically not to blame—after all, we did type in “Urquhart.” Dutifully, it led us to the town of Urquhart, which had nothing to do with our destination, the castle perched above Loch Ness.
So 60 scenic miles and many confused sheep later, we arrived—nowhere near the castle, and definitely outside our two-hour ticket window. Fortunately, the kind ticket office at the castle let us reschedule for the following day.
Our recommendation: Type in “Urquhart Castle,” not “Urquhart,” if you want to make your reservation in time.
The Weather: It Rained, and Then It Rained Some More
Pro tip: When they say “pack for rain,” they mean all of the rain. We experienced six straight days of drizzle, mist, downpours, and a few glorious sunbreaks that made the scenery sparkle like a scene out of “Braveheart.” Just without the blue face paint. Or Mel Gibson.
Recommended Highlights of Inverness and Surroundings
- Urquhart Castle (Take 2): Found it on the second try as mentioned above! Beautiful 13th to 16th century ruins with killer views of Loch Ness. No Nessie sightings, sadly.
- Culloden Battlefield: Where the Jacobites fell in 1746, as did their quest to restore the Stuart dynasty to the British throne. The Culloden Visitor Centre brings the battlefield to life in an impressive collection of displays, artifacts, and exhibits. Even on a sunny day, the battlefield has a sobering effect. Here, 1,500 Jacobites seeking to return the exiled Bonnie Prince Charlie to the throne, and 100 of the Duke of Cumberland’s government troops died within an hour.
- Clava Cairns: Mysterious Bronze Age stone circles that once housed the dead. Also: the “Outlander” time travel portal spot. It was a portal of sorts for us, too, as we wandered among the scattered chambers, imagining 4,000-year-old rituals. Surprisingly, these cairns sit in a clearing off the road with no visitor center or tourist oversight.
- Culloden Viaduct: On our way to Clava Cairns, we found a rural spot to watch a train chug along the longest viaduct in Scotland. The viaduct opened in 1898 and now serves the Highland Main Line.
- Uile-Bheist Distillery: Whisky + beer = joy. We wandered past this artisan Inverness distillery brewery as we walked along the River Ness. Since we were on a quest to savor Scotland’s finest whiskies, and it was drizzling, we went inside. Our bartender gave us a tasty tour. By the way, Uile-bheist is Scottish Gaelic for “monster.”
- Fort Augustus: Just shy of an hour’s drive south of Inverness, and worth a visit. Rick Steves states it is “perhaps the most idyllic stop along the Caledonia Canal.” We enjoyed fish and chips at The Lock Inn and ice cream next door.
- Loch Ness: We saw this famous lake from various angles as we traveled southwest from Inverness on our adventures. Nessie remains elusive, but one can’t help but look for her in the murky waters.
- Cawdor Castle: A charming private fortress built in the late 14th century, and not Macbeth-level cursed, with three beautiful gardens. After we visited in 2023, it returned to a private residence in 2024, reopening to the public in April 2025.
What We Missed: Book Carefully
- Inverness Castle: Undergoing a major renovation until the end of 2025, this 19th-century castle, once a prison, will have immersive and visual displays retelling the stories of the land. Featuring food, drink (and whisky, of course), live performances, and heritage-inspired flora and Gaelic gardens, it has the best views in town. We had to be content with a walk around the scaffolded walls when we visited in 2023.
- Jacobite Steam Train: Its film debut in Harry Potter as Hogwarts Express made it widely popular, so book many months in advance. We didn’t. No train ride for us.
- Kinlochewe: We didn’t have time to do this after our navigation challenge with Urquhart, but it is said to have “some of the most spectacular scenery in Scotland” It’s near the Isle of Skye, about two hours west of Inverness.
Dining in Inverness
- The Mustard Seed: Where I lost my haggis virginity. It was cleverly disguised in a spring roll—delicious and non-traumatizing.
- Aspendos: A Turkish gem. Donny, our local connection, knew what he was talking about.
- Kingsmills Hotel: Drinks and appetizers with Donny the drummer and his wife Isobel. Bonus: a wedding performance by his pipe band!
- The Hootenanny: This pub and music venue looked like a blast, but dinner after 10:30 pm? That was a “nah.”
- The Gellions: Loud, fun, full of rowdy Scottish music, and people losing their voices as they tried to communicate.
Where We Stayed in the Highlands
We missed out on staying in a castle (because apparently, everyone else had the same idea at least three months earlier), but Glenuig House B&B came to the rescue. Cozy rooms, kind hosts, and a breakfast buffet that fortified us for the day’s adventure. It’s just a five-minute walk (over the Grieg Street Bridge) into downtown, historical Inverness.
On The Road to Edinburgh
After our three days in Inverness, we drove over 150 miles south to Edinburgh for our final three days in Scotland. Please keep your eyes on the road to avoid going off course like we did again. There must be something about driving on the left that messes with your sense of direction, or maybe we were just having such a good time cruising along.
I recommend adding two stops along the way to give you a taste of how British royalty lives, and an appreciation for the Scottish love affair with whisky.
- Balmoral Castle: Queen Victoria and Prince Albert purchased this grand Highland castle in 1852, smack dab in the middle of our American Civil War. Today, it’s a favorite getaway for King Charles III and Queen Camilla. Charles oversees the impressive gardens that are the main feature here.
- Royal Lochnagar Distillery: Just a mile from Balmoral Castle, nestled beneath the Cairngorm mountains in the eastern Highlands, we enjoyed Scotland’s fine whisky. The Royal family has been purchasing their whisky since 1848.
Two Days in Edinburgh
Despite our late booking, we got to stay in a castle in Edinburgh. Melville Castle Hotel was grand yet affordable, with expansive grounds and trails once roamed by Mary Queen of Scots. It’s a 30-minute Uber ride from the city. (Driving ourselves in Edinburgh? That’s a hard no.)
Things We Did:
- Edinburgh Castle: Majestic, historic, crawling with tourists. Go early or go home.
- St. Giles Cathedral: Gothic and gorgeous at 901 years old—and still pulling in more admirers than your average influencer.
- The Witchery: Atmospheric dining evocative of the 16th and 17th centuries, when men and women were burned at the stake on Castle Hill. It’s touristy and overpriced, but the kind of place your neighbors insist you “just have to see.” I’m glad we did.
- Cafe Royal: Excellent service, ambience, and food at this Oyster Bar and Restaurant. Conde Nast-approved and deserving of the hype.
A Day Excursion to St. Andrew's Golf Course
- St. Andrew’s Golf Course: Contrary to a quote (questionably attributed to Mark Twain): “Golf is a good walk spoiled,” my husband, Chris, and I took a Viator walking tour of the oldest golf course in the world. The Old Course and 18th green overlook West Sands Beach, filmed in the 1980s film “Chariots of Fire.” You’ll cross paths with golfers, so keep your wits about you and duck if you hear “fore.”
- Bonus points if you visit St Andrew’s Cathedral ruins and the University of St. Andrews, where Prince William and Princess Kate went.
And Then Came The Scottish Cold
No trip is complete without a surprise ending. Kevin, Molly, and I caught “Scottish colds” during the first few days of our visit. On the crowded flight home, Chris’s throat started to tickle. A few tests later, it turned out we had brought back more than memories—we had caught COVID. Apologies to the lovely B&B owners, our whisky guide, the pipe band, wedding guests, and potentially an entire United Airlines economy cabin. We hope your immune systems are as strong as your drams.
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